Embarkation on Via Rail’s Ocean : Halifax, NS to Mont-Joli QC

Via Rail’s Ocean and Atlantic Coastlines

For those drawn to the quiet rhythm of slow travel, there are few journeys more rewarding than crossing Canada by train. While many visitors dream of Via Rail’s transcontinental Canadian, its Atlantic counterpart—the Ocean—offers a charming and often-overlooked adventure from Halifax, Nova Scotia to Montreal, Quebec. Spanning over 1,300 km and connecting three provinces and two time zones, this overnight train brings you from seaside to city, weaving through forests, valleys, and small-town Canada.

We’ve taken this route round-trip four times now, and no matter how often we board the Ocean, the anticipation is always the same: a quiet thrill, a sense of possibility, and a familiar appreciation for letting the world pass slowly by.

In the 1990s, on our first voyage along the Ocean route, we travelled on the iconic steel cars, often associated with the Canadian service. As the years passed by, Via Rail switched to what was referred to as Renaissance cars, which, though beautiful in their own right, have not held up well to Canadian weather conditions and have been subject to repeated mechanical troubles. 

In addition, the Ocean service has unfortunately been subject to financial cuts for years, and as a result, now runs on a limited schedule and is subject to service interruptions and timetable delays. All of which undercuts how great this journey once was and could be once again. Regardless, the journey remains one of the most scenic and meaningful ways to travel across Atlantic Canada, and one could likely not find a more enjoyable means to travel across the region.

Halifax Train Station : Transatlantic Connections

Our journey began at Halifax Station, a grand terminal with roots in the golden age of rail and ocean liner travel. The station, built in 1928, replaced the original North Street station, which was destroyed in the Halifax Explosion of 1917, which at the time was the largest non-nuclear explosion in the world that devastated the city of Halifax.

Halifax Station, though unassuming today, was once one of the most important train stations in Canada. Built alongside the ocean liner terminal, it allowed for a quick transition from ocean voyages to rail travel, fostering a connection between the UK, Europe and the economic centres of Canada in the days before air transport dominated travel. 

This is emphasized by the nearby statue of Samuel Cunard, the one-time Halifax resident and founder of the legendary transatlantic shipping line Cunard known for some of the greatest and grandest ocean liners in history. In fact, just two days prior to our arrival in Halifax, we had disembarked from Cunard’s Queen Mary 2, which still runs a scheduled ocean liner service across the Atlantic, making this leg of our journey a beautiful continuation of our slow return across continents.

In addition, Halifax Station is near the historic Pier 21 Immigration Museum, which once served as the entry point for hundreds of thousands of immigrants arriving by sea who would travel to their new homes in Canada by rail.

Embarkation on the Ocean

Walking into the door of Halifax Station, we found a spacious glass-roofed room buzzing with excitement, filled with passengers eager for the journey to begin. After checking in at the Via Rail desk and depositing our suitcase, we found ourselves a seat. Waiting, we watched as other passengers slowly arrived at the station. Some arrive by taxi or were dropped off by family or friends, while a few, like us, have walked to the station.

From our seats, we can see the long train stretch out down the platform. The stainless steel sleeper cars are closest to the station, beyond which are the turquoise Renaissance cars with their yellow and green stripe. The mix of classic and modern railcars is both practical and visually jarring, a testament to the Ocean’s evolution over the years. Once composed entirely of steel Budd cars like those on the Canadian, the Ocean now features Renaissance stock originally built for a never-launched European sleeper service.

At 11:30 AM, the boarding announcement echoed through the station. It was time to get on board our train! As the French language boarding call was made, we walked through Gate 1 and stepped out onto Platform 4. Walking the length of the platform, we made our way to the front of the train, where economy seating is situated. Finding our car, we were greeted at the door by a Via attendant, helped up the stairs and pointed to our seats.

A few minutes after getting ourselves settled, the staff came through to greet everyone, check our tickets and ensure that we are in both the proper car and seat assignment. A little after Noon, the train engines began to rumble and the train came to life. Soon after, around 12:30 PM we began to pull out of the station while the Via Rail staff made a bilingual PA announcement informing passengers that the Ocean was now underway, departing Halifax and bound for Montreal with stops en route!

Nova Scotia by Rail

Leaving the station, the Ocean train slowly proceeds up the northwest arm of Halifax Harbour. Around us, huge cargo ships and long cargo trains can be seen loading and unloading. Shortly after departing, he train passes Fairview Cemetery, the final resting place of over 120 Titanic victims and many of the unidentified casualties of the Halifax Explosion. These moments along the tracks are quiet reminders of how layered and complex the history of this region is.

Within moments, we have already left urban Halifax behind and entered a landscape of evergreen forests and small lakes. Our first stop is in Truro. Interestingly, while Halifax is the easternmost terminus station in Canada, the city of Truro is home to North America’s easternmost passenger train station. Truro was once an Acadian community as far back as 1701, but following the Acadian Expulsion was later remade into an English settlement in 1755. Today, the region is supported through agriculture and forestry.

Departing from Truro the train continued through the wilderness. Throughout the afternoon, we would pass through Folly Lake and Springhill Junction, each with its own story.

Crossing New Brunswick : Forests and Wetlands

Four hours into the journey, we crossed the Missaquash River, which is the border between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick – our second province. New Brunswick is Canada’s only officially bilingual province. At the time of Canadian Confederation, New Brunswick’s economy was driven by shipbuilding, making it key to the British Empire and very prosperous. Today, the provincial economy is shaped by forestry and tourism.

We have been fortunate to have explored New Brunswick on several occasions before, including previous train trips, cross-country road trips and backpacking adventures. Regardless of our semi-familiarity with the area, with each visit we are offered completely new perspectives on this beautiful province. The excitement of moving by rail only adds an extra layer of wonder to the journey. There is something special about travelling by train, the rhythmic motion, the sound of the ties and the opportunity to simply sit back and watch the world go by that makes the voyage memorable.

Stops in Sackville and Moncton

Our first stop in New Brunswick was also our first opportunity to step off the train. Pulling into Sackville, we were informed by the staff that we would have 20 minutes here at the station to step off and stretch our legs.

Sackville is a wonderful community that is home to both Mount Allison University and the Tantramar Marshes, one of the top birdwatching sites in the province. Notably, from Sackville, passengers can make connections on the Maritime bus system to Prince Edward Island.

After walking the platform, we were soon called back onboard the Ocean. Back in our seats, the engine began the process of slowly moving on, continuing our journey westward. Not long after leaving Sackville, we would arrive in Moncton. The last time we were in Moncton and New Brunswick, we were in the midst of hiking the world’s longest recreational pathway, the Trans Canada Trail, which would ultimately take us 556 days over 4 years to complete.

Departing Moncton, we passed the Miramichi River, famed for its salmon, and as we continued, the landscape shifted from large wetlands and bird sanctuaries into vast tracks of forest. Our progress is only slowed when the engineer spots a moose or on the two occasions that the Ocean needed to pull onto sidings to allow freight trains to pass – a reminder that we are part of a rail network that keeps the country supplied and moving.

In truth, we spent most of the afternoon enjoying a couple of snacks, chatting with each other, and simply watching out the windows. We had both brought books with us, but the landscape outside the train was so beautiful that it seemed a waste to not look out. So we just let the world slowly pass by and enjoyed the journey through the Canadian Maritimes with their picturesque landscapes.

Sunset in New Brunswick

As the day waned, we passed through Newcastle and made a stop in Bathurst along the shores of Chaleur Bay. After which, in quick succession, the Ocean passed through the communities of Petit Rocher, Jacquet River and Charlo.

 As the sun began to set, we arrived in Campbellton, an Acadian town with a strong history. As we pulled away from the station, the skies were filled with golden light as the sun dropped below the horizon.

With it dark outside, dinner was announced, but as Economy Class passengers, we weren’t guaranteed a seat in the dining car. We had originally hoped that we could purchase a meal in the dining car, but this is only permitted if there is enough space and time, as the dining car is the purview of the Sleeper or Easterly class passengers. Though we have had the opportunity once to dine on board, this would not be the case on this trip. Unfortunately, today the dining room was reserved for the Sleeper class passengers only.

As such, we visited the service lounge car, picked up a simple snack and coffee, and returned to our seats. The service car, with its bar-style counter, limited menu, and cozy seats, isn’t glamorous, but it gets the job done, and you certainly won’t starve on board.

Quebec by Night

Shortly after departing Campbellton, we crossed into Quebec, our third province. Here, we also had a time zone change with our clocks turning back one hour.

With the world outside of the train dark, the lights on board were soon dimmed as people began to try to get some sleep. Outside, a world of trees, rivers, and sleeping towns passes by in silhouette. As the Ocean proceeded into the night, we would make stops in Matapedia, Causapscal and Amqui, each community located within traditional Mi’kmaq territories.

Nearing midnight, we reached the shores of the St. Lawrence River, which we crossed to arrive in Mont-Joli, the “Gateway to Gaspe”. As it is now also midnight, we have reached the end of our first day on the Ocean!

The Joy of the Journey

There’s something magical about watching a region unfold slowly outside a train window. From the Atlantic coastline, past Acadian towns to salt marshes, forests and ocean bays, this route offers a deeply human, deeply Canadian travel experience.

Despite the Ocean’s scaled-back schedule and infrastructure quirks, this journey remains one of the best-kept secrets in Canadian travel. For those of us drawn to slow journeys and meaningful moments, this train is more than a means of transportation—it’s a moving meditation, a link to the past, and a gentle reminder to slow down and take it all in.